Here we are again, rising from the center of the Baja Peninsula, sunburned, dirty and having a blast. This trip is so amazing I don’t know where to start or how to possibly document all the impressions and experiences we are having. But we have finally arrived at a town where there’s wifi and so I’ll give it a try. Feel free to press delete whenever the urge hits you.
We’ve made it to the first big city, done the Costco thing and left town all in one day. The first lesson we are learning on this tour is that there is no rest, we are constantly on the go and it’s all seriously good. Now we head off on the road again through the rural countryside to our next destination. Jim and I are still amazed to be part of this huge lineup on the highway and get a laugh when we see ourselves in the rig ahead of us. It obviously doesn’t take much to amuse us old folks.
We continue travelling through very small towns and villages. It doesn’t take long to realize that four days of rain have really caused a lot of damage along here. As the caravan slowly drives through various areas, we see that it’s almost a flood and disaster zone. The people are shoving huge mounds of clay, mud and water out of their houses and businesses, the road to our campsite is completely washed out and, omigod, calamity of the century, the Airstream is dirty. Very, very dirty. Jim is in mourning and can’t stop looking and moaning. At long last, we are forced to stay the night where we have stopped for our body break, that is, a friendly Pemex station right beside the rain-filled highway. Doesn’t matter, it seems this group can party anywhere.
With the weather improved the next day, we are off to a campsite that is in a Mexican family’s yard in the middle of nowhere. They feed us a homemade meal that night, the kids shyly wave at us, the horse looks at us from his position beside the farmhouse and we walk back to our trailers as a group under a sky that is unbelievably full of stars. The next day, we climb through the boulder fields that compose this part of the country and are suitably awed at the cave paintings and hundreds of rocks the size of houses Wow, what a country.
And then it’s on to another town and the lagoon that comes in from the Pacific Ocean. This lagoon is a mating and birthing ground for gray whales, many of whom have travelled here from Alaska. As we are ushered into small boats, I’m delighted to be off the desert and on the water. For three hours we watch the horizon and see many, many whales. Once again, it’s beyond awesome. We are so lucky.
The next day sees us at another town and we settle into the “Rice and Beans RV Park”. After a tour of the town where we get date milkshakes made from the fresh dates that are growing all around us, we gather on the large porch of the Rice and Beans restaurant. I’m not sure what I had for dinner that night (besides lots of rice and lots of beans), but I do know I have begun a love affair with Mexican margaritas. The first half of the first one has me just about under the table, and that is just the beginning. Wow, do these people know how to party.
And now we have just completed two days of “boon-docking”. that is, camping without services such as electricity or running water. We have really walked the edge by camping on a spectacular beach on the Sea of Cortez with about fifty other RVers from all over Canada and the United States. Everyone is of one mind – lay back, enjoy, and enjoy some more. Nothing and everything is happening on that beach. There are no businesses or tourist spots, but there’s swimming, kayaking, paddleboarding, fishing, hiking up the cliffs, visiting and more visiting. Mexican entrepreneurs show up throughout the day selling vegetables, shrimp, water, rugs, handmade pillows, and even muscle power and water to wash your rig. Yep, that’s right, the Mexican version of a carwash. After Jim supplies the soap and ladder (did they forget theirs or what?) and held the sprayer while the boys wash with rags and brushes, they move on down the beach (with Jim’s soap and ladder) to do several more RVs. As we look at our truck and trailer, we see that they are much cleaner than when we came through the mud and rain storm, but for some reason I’m still hearing mumbling about streaks and scratches and water drops. All this after those poor Mexican men worked so hard! Geez, that man is never happy.
And so it goes. Today we are in a small city halfway down the peninsula and have shopped and wandered around the whole afternoon. Tonight we went for fajitas (and rice and beans and margaritas) and had live Mexican music played at our table all evening with an especially charming rendition of Jailhouse Rock sung in lively Spanish. The experiences continue to flow, the company is excellent but it still doesn’t make up for missing family and friends and 22 below at home. LOL. Thinking of all of you, but still having a blast. Talk soon and adios.